Opal Rowe came home one night craving something warm and delicious and at least somewhat healthy. “I went on the hunt to find something that would feel like a satisfying meal and not a greasy snack, but I couldn’t find one,” she says. “So, I made one.”
She made herself a Jamaican patty, a tasty little meat-filled pastry. The first one satisfied, but she wanted to take these perfect patties beyond her own kitchen. “There’s a ton of examples of snack food getting a premium treatment,” Rowe says. “Burgers used to be just fast food but now you can pay $45 for one. But, as snack food culture has evolved, the patty has not. I want to change that.”
Toronto is filled with places that sell Jamaican patties—they’re even in the subway! But the Jamaican-born Rowe couldn’t find any up to par, so she started Stush Patties to craft the artisanal take she had yet to get here in the GTA, making ones with mouth-watering fillings like jerk chicken, curried shrimp, and ackee and salted tofu.
“Nothing brings me more joy than feeding people,” says Rowe, who previously owned and operated a home-care agency. “And, through Stush Patties, I get to feed thousands — and soon millions — of people.”
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Her patties are all about the little details, whether it’s the succulent grass-fed beef inside or the perfectly flaky pastry made from vegetable shortening instead of lard; they’re already a big hit at neighborhood grocery stores like Fiesta Farms, The Epicure Shop and Summerhill Market as well as local cafes like Filosophy Cafe and Golden Gecko Coffee.
Rowe also regularly donates patties to shelters so everyone can have a little patty moment. “Patties are comforting,” she says. “Comfort foods tend to elevate our feel-good hormones. Comfort food evokes pleasant and happy memories and togetherness.”
In the mood for some island comfort? Here are some of Rowe’s own favourite spots for Jamaican fare.
Danforth Food Market, 2742 Danforth Ave.
“They have a wide variety of Jamaican groceries and just general stuff. It’s my one-stop shop for all things Jamaican, be it Limacol (lotion), which I’ve been using since I was a child; jackass corn, which my grandmother made; or Pickapeppa Sauce, a staple in my house and an ingredient for some of my fillings.”
Chubby’s Jamaican Kitchen, 104 Portland St.
“My go-to Jamaican restaurant for dining out. It’s relaxed and laidback with friendly service. They carry a good range of popular Jamaican dishes and some awesome cocktails. Definitely the place to take someone for dinner who wants a taste of the island.”
The Diner’s Corner, 678 Yonge St.
“Located in the heart of the city, this place has the best Jamaican Sunday brunch in the GTA. With favourites like hominy corn porridge, festival (fried dumplings) and escovitch fish, plus mellow Jamaican music in the background, it’s hard to believe that you’re not in Jamaica.”
The Real Jerk, 842 Gerrard St. E.
“Here’s the place to go for a lime (a Jamaican term for hanging out). It’s super-casual and has a variety of Jamaican food and karaoke. Best of all, the bar boasts a wide variety of good rum.”
KaSpace Café, 1183 Queen St. E.
“My favourite cafe of all time. With hot full meals, it’s more than a cafe. It’s vegan cuisine, but it’s not the regular Ital vegan that’s usually associated with Jamaica. The staff are friendly but professional, and the vibes are always right. It reminds me of SoHo: chic and contemporary.”
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Craving Jamaican food? We asked an expert for her top five spots in Toronto - Toronto Star
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